Huayna Potosi - 6,088 meters (19,974 feet)

As you all know I am always full of good ideas.  Take for instance my bright idea of going paragliding last year.  Being afraid of hieghts, it turned out I should have bought some adult diapers before running off that damn mountain!  Well, once again another patented great idea - moutain climbing!  Really, how hard can that be, include my fear of hieghts, easy!  I just had to find someone equally as "brave" as me, that was easy, my Swedish friend Julia once again fell for another of my great ideas.

How did this all come about, you ask.  Well, all the trekking at high altitude this year gave me inspiration.  Imagine standing on top of the world and having that feeling of acomplishment.  Yes, done we were off.  We found a great mountain climbing operator that specialized in Huayana Potosi excusions, they even had a doctor talk to us about the trek, safety first.  We scheduled our trek for two days later, this gave us time to prepare ourselves and have one final drink with the Pampas crew.

That morning the lady at the agency told us that it was unlikely that we would make high camp, let alone the summit.  She said that the weather outlook was poor at best, and if we wanted to turn back now it would not be an issue, she would return our money, but if we went it would be our loss.  Being budget travellers we discussed this in detail, being idiots we told her to put us in a car and send us to the mountain.  Three hours later we arrived at base camp, 4,750 m (15,584 ft) with our guide and had lunch.  After lunch it was time for our training session.  This included a four hour round trip hike to and from a glacier.  The glacier was neccesary because we needed to learn how to use our crampons and ice pick.  The hike itself was a test, mainly beacuse mountain climbing boots are not like hiking boots, there is no flexibility so walking is a very stiff and labourious ordeal.  Even after four hours in them, I was still not fully comfortable.  Then you add the crampons and things get a bit strange because you have to walk with your feet apart as not to trip up in the spikes.  Add an ice pick and then you stare up at an ice wall and think to yourself "that may be a bit steep, even with all these spiky things I have attached to me."  But, you climb it anyway, several times, and decend it several times.  Then the guide sends you to walk down an ice ridge, the fear of hieghts sets in and you forget to spred your legs while walking, you trip and almost fall.  Fun.

Heating up and drying cloths

After the training was over it was time to warm up by the fire at base camp, eat and dry cloths.  You see it was snowing the whole time that day.  At this point the guide is unsure of our ascent to high camp, but says we will make the attempt.  As for the summit, he does not want to put our lives in danger, so if it´s bad we will return to base camp.  Fair enough, we knew that going in.  The four hour trek had made us tired, add to that the practice session on the glacier and it was time to go to sleep.  Did I mention it was cold, Minnesota cold?  So sleep was a chilling experience, even in our sleeping bags.

We made it through the night to wake up to more fridgid tempuratures and heavy snows.  The guide was unsure of our attempt at high camp at this point.  We were to relax and wait until after lunch to make the move.  So we waited and waited some more.  The snow would lighten up a bit, but return to falling in bunches.  Finally the guide told us to get ready.  We had a four hour uphill hike to high camp, 5,300 m (17,388 ft) and we had to get there by nightfall.

Fearless (or stupid) friends at the start of the trek

Hiking a steep ridge

Snow is starting to get deep, and the climbs steeper

High camp

The trek began in the snow, but it began to taper off to a light flurry.  It was all uphill, straight uphill at points.  I guess when climbing a mountain uphill is the norm.  The snow was not to deep, and easily handled at the begining.  Once we passed the permanent snow line, it was thick.  The hiking became more labourous and steeper, but we pushed on.  Then a miracle, blue skies!!  Yes, the final push to high camp included beautiful blue skies, we were extatic!!  We made it to high camp in the alotted time, and had a chance to enjoy blue skies and beautiful panoramic views.

High camp was a bit small and rather cold.  Actually it was freezing once the sun went down.  But by then it we were already in our bags and trying to sleep.  At that altitude, it is hard to sleep.  You constantly wake up gasping for air, and then fall back asleep just to repeat the horrible cycle over and over again.

At midnight it was time to get up to attempt the summit.  Before we laid down to sleep we felt good about the summit, mostly because of the blue skies.  But when we awoke, disaster - full on blizard conditions.  We had a small breakfast and discussed the situaution.  The guide told us it was up to us, we could start and if it was absolutly terrible, we would turn back.  We, being stupidly fearless, agreed that the summit it was!

At 1 AM we began the six hour ascent.  The snow was blinding and visibilty was about 20 meters.  It was pitch black out, the wind was blowing like crazy and all I could see in front of me was the shadow of the guide in my headlamp.  We were roped together, me behind the guide and Julia bringing up the rear.  We were each about 10 meters apart, the rope helped us stay in line.  When we looked up, we were blinded by the snow, so keeping our heads down helped.

I have no idea how the guide knew where he was going because it was a sea of white.  This is a time in your life when one has to put all his faith in another´s hand and hope that the person knows what the hell he is doing.  Luckily, our guide had 14 years of experience on this mountain and others in Bolivia, so we felt good about it.  So we continued this way for about an hour, being blindly led up a mountain.

At this point he said that it seemed we were the only ones to make the attempt, but thought we could continue.  After a while he roped us in and said that in this area is where the crevaces began.  Instructions were as follows - "Keep the rope taught, if I fall, drop and get yourselves in the break position and wait for me to climb out"  reasuring, I know.  We plodded along, passing crevaces hundreds of feet deep.  You could see them ahead of us, like grey monsters splitting the snow, once we were on top of them my heart would race and the pace would pick up until we were all clear.  At one point we were surrounded by crevaces and had to turn back and find another route up the mountain.

The groups behind us

5,800 meters, time to turn back

Julia in the waist deep snow

Finally off the mountain, a bit frozen

We stopped for a breather, we were already behind schedule because of the insane weather conditions.  All of a sudden in the distance behind us we saw headlamps, there were three more groups behind us, following our trail that we were creating in the now knee deep snow.  We continued as the other groupd gained on us.  Apparently following someone else´s tracks is alot easier than trying to make your own path.

Eventually the groups caught up with us, we let then lead from here.  The next battle came at a ice wall atleast 100 feet high at an 80 degree angle.  The climb was a killer, the snow was so deep on the wall, it was hard to get the pick into a solid spot, let alone the crampons.  When we finally got to the top, no rest, we needed to continue.  We were way behind schedule at this point and the summit is still a way off.  We continued along the ridge for another hour, at this point it was about 6 AM.  The guide stopped and explained that the summit was not going to be reachable and we had to make a decison, continue or head back.  We were freezing, air was at a minimum and we were still in the midst of a blizzard.  We finally made a wise decision and headed back.  We made it to 5,800 m (19,029 ft), to us an incredible feat in such extreme conditions.  Later we found out that none of the groups made the summit.  The most experienced team, four French mountaineers, made it to 5,900 m (19,357 ft).  By that standard, we did great as inexperienced mountaineers!


So we began the long decent down, the weather seemed to worsen as the sun began to light up the mountain.  When we reached the bottom of the ice wall, Julia was standing in waist deep snow.  The wind was blowing steady at high speeds.  We were covered in ice, at one point my left nostril was iced shut.  We passed areas that looked like white darkness when we were climbing, now we could see the details of our attempted ascent.  The crevaces were bigger, the snow deeper and the the true steepness of the mountain stared us in the face.


We plugged along and finally reached high camp several hours later, only to have a quick snack and head to base camp.  The trail to base camp had vanished under three feet of snow and once again we were slowed by the snow.  We finally got off the mountain at 11 AM, ten hours after we began, completely spent!!

This seemed like a great idea at the time.  In retrospect is was the greatest idea I have ever had!  We didn´t make the summit, but we were faced with impossible conditions, and fought through them!  The feeling of making it to 5,800 meters was incredible, I could not imagine what it would have been to make it to the summit.  This won´t be my last mountain, I just hope I can find another person as strong and insane as Julia to do it with!!

Las Pampas

After 33 hours on a bus, I finally arrived in La Paz, only to get on another bus for what was supposed to be 18 hours the next day.  Great life I lead, you see it´s not that glamorous to travel!  At this point I have joined up with my Swedish friends Johanna and Julia again and we´ve got plans, we just don´t know getting to our destination was going to be hell.

We get on the bus, a Bolivian bus - no baths, no AC, no movies, a bit rancid and not so comfortable.  As Bolivian buses go this one was a bit above average, so it´s looking good so far.  To get to Rurrenbaque, you have two choices, this bus for $11 or a plane for $130, bus it is.  This bus travels out of La Paz, up a mountain pass, then proceeds down said mountain for many hours and finally reaches the Amazon basin 18 hours later.  Atleast that is what your told.

We hit the mountain pass and all is good, except it starts snowing, really snowing, kinda reminded me of home, but I was on top of a mountain.  The bus slowed to a snails pace and stopped a few times.  It was freezing on the bus, no AC also means no heat.  The snow ended but the cold persisted for a few hours.  I was not prepared for this, neither were the Swedes, the Brits or the Dutch kid.  So there we sat, freezing and trying to sleep a little.  The bonus here was that the road was paved, so it was a somewhat smooth ride.

Passing another bus

At the first bathroom break it was starting to get warmer and we could feel the humidity starting to set in.  Shortly after the break the rain began and the pavement ended.  Not only did the pavement end, but the road became a series of switchback along the face of a mountain.  The drops were several hundred feet, if not more.  When looking out the window, you did not see the edge of the road because the tires were riding the edge of the road.  Did I mention that the road was wide enough for the bus and that´s it?  So, if on coming traffic was encountered, one of the vechicles had to back up?!?!  and make space out of nowhere for the other vechicle to pass. 

Clearing a landslide, with what appears to be a river running through it.

Same bus company, different driver...we hope!

The end of the bus hanging over he edge of the road

When on a bus in a foriegn country, with the majority of passengers being locals, their reactions to events happening around the bus should set the mood for the foreigners.  So when the Bolivinas panic, you panic!  Johanna was first - "If this bus backs up anymore, I´m getting off the fucking thing and walking!!"  This took place when the bus backed up to let the other bus go by.  I looked out the back window and noticed that the end of our bus was well over the edge of the cliff, I couldn´t see the tire, probably for the same reason I couldn´t see the road.

For some unknown reason we kept passing other vechicles on the left, the side of the drop off.  Julia with the most intense look of panic on her face "Why the fuck are we passing on the left?!?!?"  This went on for hours, we were all freaking out, along with the Bolivinans.  We passed several landslides that were being cleaned up, the roads were absolute shit from the rain and the fear of falling off the face of the earth always present!  The winning moment of this stretch of road came when we passed another bus in the river.  This bus was from the same bus company that we were riding on, safety first!

We finally got to stop for dinner, mystery meat soup and mystery meat main course, delicious!  From here on out it seemed that the road was much better, muddy and not so wide, but we weren´t hanging off 1,000 foot cliffs anymore.  The sun went down, so we couldn´t see what was happening outside, this eased our minds and we all fell into a restless sleep.

I awoke to find the sun up and the scheduled arrival in half an hour.  We were riding along a nice level plane, no mountains, just fields along either side of the bus.  So nice, well not exactly.  As I mentioned before it was raining, alot, you know rainy season in Bolivia.  The road was worse then the mountain road because the water had no where to go.  It was hot and the opened windows were of little relief.  In some areas two vechicles could pass, but in most it was a one way muddy mess.  We were constantly stopped letting other vechicles by.  The bus would lean side to side almost tipping over.  One local told us - "if it tips over, it´s no big deal, it just kinda lays down."  Reasuring.  But we finally made it, not in 18 hours, but in 24 hours, 24 hours of pure hell!

This is the second time in as many years I have been on this bus.  What could be so incredible to make me get on the most hellish bus ride in all of Bolivia, twice in two years?  Las Pampas.  These are wetlands that lead into the Amazon jungle.  There is no canopy, so animal viewing is insane.  It´s a wetland, need I say more.  Our group included five Dutch, one Brit, two Swedes and me.  An amazing group for an amazing time.

I won´t bore you with the details of the three day tour, but let you enjoy a few pictures!

Yellow monkey

Cayman hanging out by our camp

Sunset over Las Pampas

Anaconda hunting in the puring rain, ankle deep water and thick reeds, safety first!!

Swimming with the pink dolphins in the Amazon

The best group in the world!!

Playing futball in a swamp!

The muddy mess

Yes, and we had to return through the madness!!

The Santa Cruz Trail

I have always been told to go to Huaraz and witness the Cordillera Blanca.  I have never had the opportunity to do it and I thought I was gonna miss it this year because I didn't have any trekking partners.  In step Nikki and Chris, BAM, trekking partners and great ones at that!  The only problem is that we are in Arequipa, southern Peru, and Huaraz is in northern Peru.  I've already been to northern Peru on this trip, but what the hell!  So we got on the 18 hour bus, connect in Lima with the 10 hour bus and arrive in Huaraz 30 hours later.  We spend the next day figuring out a game plan for our trek.  We find out that the best trek for this time of year is the Santa Cruz trek because it is the middle of the rainy season, hmm rain, sounds like fun!

There are two ways of attacking the beast, the most common way and the way the tour groups go is to start in Vacaria and go towards Cashabamba.  This brings you to the pass the second day.  If you go the opposite way you hit the pass on the third day.  We mulled it over and decided to take the road less traveled, best decision we ever made!



Day 1 trekking, Nikki on her way up

Day one begins at the mouth of the valley, we are facing a steady climb of 800 m (2,625 ft.) to the first campsite.  It takes us 5 hours, 5 exhausting hours, let's say that the trekking legs are not 100% yet.  Carrying a 30 pound pack and a non stop climb took it's toll on this old man.  But it was worth it because we had perfect sunny weather in the 50's and the natural beauty of the valley was incredible.  We got to camp and we were the only ones there, perfect.  There was just enough time to cook up some tacos and eat before the sun went down and the chill set in.  The tempuratures at night hovered around freezing, so the sleeping bags were essential!



Second day - along glacial lagoons

 


Surrounded by glacier covered mountains

The next day we rose a bit late, but once again the sun was shining, the trekking gods were smiling down upon us!  We packed up and began another 800 m steady climb, or so we thought.  The valley ahead of us was overcast and looked cold.  But as we advanced, the clouds broke and the sun shined on us all day!  It took us 3 hours to get to the campsite prior to the one we planned on staying at.  The trail was suprising level along glacial lagoons and we were plugging along at a good rate.  We should have made camp within two hours, the only problem was that we were on the wrong side of the river!  Yes, we lost the trail!  We began to make the difficult hike back along the river looking for a safe crossing, none.  Stop, eat, think this over.  The only answer was to back track to the wetland and try to cross the river there where it is forked.  After two hours of back tracking and crossing narrow but deep channels we finally got to the right side of the river.  There we found three folks sitting around enjoying the sun.  They told us that they came across the pass yesterday and this is the first time they had seen the sun.  It seems the path we took was the correct on, at least so far!  At this point we've been carrying our packs for five hours and had about 2 hours to go.  Easy, right?  No, the trail turned up, and up some more.  The last two hours were hell, but the reward at the end was worth it!  Our campsite might have been one of the most incredible campsites in the world, see new picture at top of blog.  Nestled at the end of the valley at the foot of the Nevado Taulliraju.

Nikki making the final ascent to the pass



The third day it was up early to begin our 300 m (984 ft) climb to the pass.  A quick breakfast and we were off.  It took about two hours.  The climb to the pass was basically walking up a stream with a loose stone substrate.  It seems that all the melt and rain from the mountain was everywhere, in particular along the ascent.  There were areas where the trail became solid rock, slippery solid rock.  There were sections where bouldering techniques were necessary.  This was not an easy ascent, but really, when is it ever!  We finally made it to the top, and the feeling of completeing a phsyically challenging feat is beyond words.  I was out of breathe, sore, tired and hungry, but I felt like I was on top of the world.  I sort of was, the pass is at 4,750 m (15,584 ft).  We spent some time taking it all in, sun on the side that we came from and overcast and rain in the direction we were headed.

The view decending the mountain

After a nice rest, it was time for the decent.  The beginning was steep and included switchbacks, slippery and loose rocks and generally steep grade down.  We arrived after 7 hours of hiking at the campsite at 2 in the afternoon.  An early arrival, we had decended 880 m (2,887 ft) and were ready for a nice relaxing afternoon.  The reason, we realized, that our reverse route was 100% better than the normal route is because the descent.  If we had done the opposite, we would have had a 8 hour hike on day two of all switchbacks and hell trail to reach the pass, we are wise folks people, wise!!  We settled in and finally it was payback for the sunny weather we had to endure, about 5 PM the rain came with some nice hail.  Time to hunker down in the tent and warm up some food.  It was actually nice to spend the evening in the tent, reading and enjoying the sound of raindrops hitting the tent.

Civilization!!

A lazy start on the final day brought a pituresque 3 hour hike to the town of Cajatambo.  It was a great way to end four days of trekking.  The first signs of civilization in four days brought friendly smiles from locals.  They all waved at us, gave us helpful hints and were happy to see the three gringos and their packs.  I often think about what the locals must think about the way we get all geared up for these things, when they climb these passes many times in their lives with no advanced gear, much less footwear.  It must be a bit comical to them! 

Everything was going smooth and fine, until I slipped on a rock, go figure, that never happens.  Either does the outcome, more bruised ribs, my favorite.  But, we trekked on, got to Cajatambo expecting to find the collectivo waiting for us.  Exhusated and happy to be at the exit point, I asked a really nice old lady sitting in front of her Bodega at what time the collectivo arrived.  She looked at me and said the collectivo hasn't come here since the 80's when they built the new road to Vacaria.  Huh, news to us.  I asked her where Vacaria was, she pointed up and said at the top of that mountain.  Huh, that sucks.  How long will it take to get there?  A little over an hour.  And it's up there, on top of that mountain?  Yes, that one.  There are no cars that go up there?  No, no cars ever come here.  And it's up, right?  Yeah, straight up that mountain.  Hum, great news, thanks.  Well the journey never ends and we got our packs on for one last acsent.  An hour later we arrived at Vacaria dropped our packs and cursed high altitude hiking!

There we were, just in time for the collectivo.  Game over, right?  Never!  For those of you who do not know what a collectivio is, let me express what we were getting into.  This particular collectivo was a blue 17 passenger van with 20 people in it.  Which isn't bad because these things ussually have 30 people in them.  Nikki and I sat in the back, wedged in like sardines, while Chris was in the front with all kinds of leg room.  It was to be a two hour ride to Junga.  First we had to drive switchbacks up the mountain to a pass.  Incredible sights, it never gets old!  We made it to the top with no problem and began the descent.  Again a series of switchbacks that never ended.  At one point the driver, Don Pepe, pulled over.  Huh, what's this, bathroom break, how thoughtful!  No, flat tire.  No biggie, that has to be normal on the incredibly bumpy road made of gravel and boulders.  In ten minutes Don Pepe had us on the road again.  A few more switchbacks later and we pull over again.  What now?  Broken steering fluid line, this might take a little longer.  Nope, Don Pepe got under the van, hammered on something, busted out the duct tape and we were on our way! 

We made it to the bottom of the mountain and things were going great, when tradgedy struck.  I didn't see exactlly what happened, but apparently the right rear tire flew past the front of the van, while the rest of us felt the huge clunck and heard the digging of the rear right axle into the gravel road!  We get out and the tire was about 100 m ahead of the van, the rear break drum was about 100 m behind the van and lug nuts scattered everywhere.

This is where I got worried, atleast 20 km from Yunga, brokedown along the side of a gravel road, literally in the middle of nowhere.  But, than a strange thing began to happen, as the locals got off the bus they all began looking for parts that may have fallen off the van, this is obviously not the first time something like this has happened.  As they were collecting parts, Don Pepe was accesing the situation.  Once all the parts were recovered, he attempted to get the jack under the axle.  No go, it was buried in the gravel.  He grabs a rock and instructs all the male passegers to lift the vechicle.  Alright, we all lift and push, he gets the rock under the axle.  Not enough room for the jack, bigger rock and 1-2-3 lift!  Nope, bigger rock, repeat, and repeat again!  After the fourth rock, the jack is in place.  Piece by piece the brake is reassembled, and tire place on, 45 minutes later we are on the road and finally arrive safetly in Junga.

An amazing four day trek, with the wonder of nature surronding us.  And we got the bonus collectivo ride from hell!!  Loved every second of those four days.  In fact I have loved every minute of being in Peru for a month.  It is time to move on, Bolivia here I come!!  I leave you with some pictures of my home land, I love her and she will be missed!!

Peruvian sunset at Mancora



Pre-Inca ruins at Kuelap



Gotca

Bugging out!

Moutains over Ollantaytambo

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu - the royal houses

Colca Canyon

Cabanaconde - the pueblo at the top of Colca

Santa Cruz River

Santa Cruz River alongside the trail

Trekking the Santa Cruz valley

Punta Union Pass - 15,584 feet

Mi Familia en Lima

The Return to Machu Picchu and Colca Canyon

There are certain places in this world that you may visit more than once in your life, two of these places are Machu Picchu and Colca Canyon.  One is the one of the greatest achievements of humanity, the other one of the greatest achievements of mother nature.



Street in Ollantayambo



First it was off to Machu Picchu.  I spent a day in Cuzco planning my route.  Everytime I've been to Machu Picchu I've been on a tour of some sort.  This time it was all me, no boring tour guide.  I had plans on meeting Julia and her friends in Machu Picchu when they got off the Inca Trail, so I had limited time to complete the mission.  I planned it all out, a two day visit to the Sacred Valley of the Incas then off to Aguas Clientes, great plan!  I get up the next day, to get my train and park pass.  While in line for my park pass, I begin to realize that my dates are all screwed up.  My plan to take two days in the Sacred Valley does not concide with meeting my friends in Machu Picchu, classic Hobbit!  So, the plan changes and I'm of to Ollantaytambo.



Inca ruins on the side of a mountain

I grab the collectivo and I'm off.  I get to Ollanataytambo, find the cheapest hostel in town and go for a hike up a mountain to the Temple of the Puma and Moon.  Atleast, close to them, it was later in the day and it was a long way.  The view was insane, saw the pueblo from above and the mountains were amazing.  The town itself still shows sign of Inca culture, with it's narrow coblestone streets and terracing.

Got down the mountain, had dinner and went back to the hostel, you know the cheapest in town.  Well there was a reason for the incredible price at this place.  It was the worst bed of the trip, paper thin mattress laid upon wooden slats that embedded themselves into my body throughout the night, gotta love cheap hostels!!



Machu Picchu with classic Inca terracing



The next day I went to the market, bought a bunch of fruit and headed to the train for Aguas Calientes.  I got there, found my Swiss friends and checked into their hostel, quite a step up - private bath with hot water and a real bed!!  Luxury!!  I went to dinner and back to the hostel for a hot shower, right....wrong - no hot water in a town called Aguas Calientes (translated literally - Hot Waters)  ARE YOU KINDING ME?!?!?!  False advertisement all around!!  Luckily, the hot water was back in the moring before I left for Machu Picchu.



Llama at Machu Picchu

I planned on walking up the mountain to Machu Picchu, but it was raining.  I'm old and wise so I grabbed the bus.  I got there about 7AM, and headed straight for the Temple of the Sun for the view, well, it was raining and overcast, so running up the mountain for the view was actually unwise and quite stupid.  I went back down and meandered around the site, checking things out without the chatter of a tour guide and enjoyed the hell out of it.  I had time to kill becuase I knew that Julia and company would be at Huayna Picchu at 10 AM, so I found a spot overlooking the ruins and had breakfast and took it all in.  At ten, I headed to Huayna Picchu to find the Swedes.  Well, they were a no show, I got stood up, but as I always say, eveything always works out.  As I was sitting there, enjoying the light drizzle, who walks by but Niki Tiegland and her boyfriend Chris.  Go figure, small world.  Niki is from Mankato, but now lives in Alaska with Chris.  I knew they were in South America headed in the opposite direction that I am headed.  I figured there would be a planned meeting somewhere along the way, not this!!  It gets better, I ask her what the hell, she says she just got off the Inca Trail and was getting ready to climb Huayna Picchu, sound familiar?  I ask her if she saw four Swedish chicks on the trail, her response - "No, but there are four Swedish chicks staying at our hostel."  My response - "Hospedaje Inka?"  Yes she says, funny thing that's where I was staying also - small world people, really small world!! I spent the rest of the morning perched in different areas of the site, eating my fruit and loving the views.  I headed back to town and to the train for my return trip to Cusco and to meet up with my growing pool of friends.



Colca Family lovin' the Gato!



The next day we became seven, three Americans and four Swedes.  My Swiss friends were off in a different direction, thank you Manuela and Tanja for a wonderful week of sun and wine!  The seven of us decided that Arequipa would be a great next stop, Colca Canyon bound!  We all loaded up on the bus and 10 hours later we arrived in Arequipa.  We found a great hostel, cheap and comfy with hot water! and began looking into options for the Colca Canyon trek.  Done, leaving in the morning, now what?  How about a grill, meat, a few boxes of Gato Negro and Pisco Sours...I love the plan!!  By the way, I've become quite the wino on this trip - gotta love cheap box wine from Chile!!

The Swedes, one switchback below me - steep!



The next day it's off to Colca Canyon, the deepest canyon in the world.  We begin our decent in the mid-morning.  It is a full kilometer to the bottom, switch backs and loose rocks all the way.  On top of the canyon it is your classic Andean mountian scene, scrub brush and high plains desert.  As we decend into the canyon it begins to change towards the bottom and becomes more tropical.  The views are stunning and the decent is relatvily easy.  We all make it down, have lunch and start our trek across the canyon to a hostel known as the Oasis, pools included!  Great day of hiking with great views and great folks, loads of fun, and the weather held out until we arrived.  Then the rain started, luckily we were smart enough to bring our dear friend El Gato with us!  Made dinner that much better!  In fact, a South African couple saw how much fun the Gato brought us and joined us.



Almost to the top



The next morning it was up early for the hike out of the canyon.  We started at 5 AM and got to the top at 7:30 AM, 2.5 hours to hike switch backs a kilometer up.  I have no idea how long the trail was, but going pretty much straight up for 2.5 hours was hard, tiring and sweaty, really sweaty.  So worth it though, the views with the rising of the sun were great and the reward of reaching the top incredible.

So there it is, the return to two of the greatest places that I have ever been.  Was it worth it, yes!  I rarely like to go back to places that I have been to already, there are very few places that I would return to, these are two of those places.  Everytime I've been to Machu Picchu it takes my breath away, this time was no different.  The size and layout of the city are awe inspiring.  The location of the city, on top of a mountain, not just any mountain, a mountain with a such a steep climb it is basically a monster cliff face.  The Incas were incredible architects, they did things that mordern day technology could never imitate.

The return to Colca also brought awe to my eyes.  Shear natural beauty, and the thought that people have been living at the bottom of this canyon for hundreds of years and farming it is incredible, gotta love Peruvians!  It has changed alot in eight years, electricity, running water and more.  The people here have benefited from tourism and they appreciate it.

What did I learn about myself....time to gloat....I am in much better shape at age 40 then I was in my early 30's.  Yes it is true.  It took me over three hours to climb out of that canyon at age 32 and I thought I was gonna die when I reached the top.  When I was 30 walking around Machu Picchu, I was completely winded and had to take constant breaks.  This year I ran around the site like I owned it!  Who would have thunk that a heavy Blue Bricks diet would make me a 40 year old machine?

Stay tuned the next update is incredible, more trekking, more injuries and great pictues!  Go Packers!!  or Vamos Los Empacadores!!  Time to watch the game...in Spanish - BONUS!!